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Table of Contents

Piano Tuning

Piano  Moving

Piano Care and Repair

Piano Purchasing and Selling
 ( no more myths... here's the facts )

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If you are a beginning pianist or care for one Click Here

Piano Generalities
 ( old wives tales, piano names and sizes, Grand Pianos vs. Upright Pianos, etc.... )

Piano Tuning

• What causes my piano to go out of tune ?

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• I know my piano sounds better after a tuning, but what exactly is a tuning, and why

• should my instrument be tuned to A440 ?

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• How often do I actually need to have my piano tuned ?

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• Why, if a piano hasn't been tuned for years, does my piano take multiple tunings to

• reach and hold A440 ?

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• I've heard a rumor that pianos can be tuned two ways.  One method is 'by ear' and

• the other is called 'electronic' piano tuning. Which is the better tuning ?

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• Someone told me the piano wires in my piano are too old and brittle for the piano

• to be tuned to A440, and that it must be tuned to 'present' pitch.   What does  'present
  pitch tuning' mean, and why can't brittle wires be stretched to the pitch of A440 ?

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•   Piano Care, Repair, Rebuilding and Refinishing

• Is it true that most pianos in the Southeast require some form of humidity

• modulation with various devices ?

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• Where do I find the serial number on my piano ?
     Grand Pianos    Upright/Vertical Pianos

• Will I harm my piano if I clean or dust it ?

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• Is tuning all the maintenance my piano needs ?

• I'm on a tight budget, is it possible to segment out piano repair
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• Should I purchase a new piano or rebuild the vintage/antique 
  piano I currently have ?

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• Piano Component Terminologies ( buzzwords )

• regulation

• pitch

• repairing, refurbishing, and rebuilding

• strings

• temperament

• technician

• harmonics

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•   Piano Moving

• Does a piano need to be tuned every time it is moved, and how soon should that be ?

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• I want to move my own piano and I do not want to damage it.  Any tips ?

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•   Piano Purchasing and Selling

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•   Buying             Selling

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• Buying or Purchasing a Piano

• I want to buy a piano.  Should I buy a new piano or are pre-owned pianos a better investment ?

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• Do you have any tips for me as I shop for a new or used piano ?

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• What is the difference between production pianos and pianos that are hand made ?

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• What is the difference between solid spruce soundboards and laminated soundboards ?

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• Are aluminum piano action rails better than wooden ones ?

• Should I purchase a new piano or rebuild the vintage/antique piano I currently have ?

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• Selling Your Piano

• Does my piano depreciate in value or is it an appreciating item ?

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• Should I have my piano tuned prior to selling it ?

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• Should I have my instrument professionally appraised before putting it on the market ?

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• Piano Generalities ( old wives tales, what sizes of pianos are there, etc. ...)

• What is a vertical piano, and how many different sizes of pianos are there ?

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• My mom says to, "Never place a piano against an outside wall!"  Is this true ?

• Grand pianos vs. Upright/vertical pianos.  What are the actual differences?

• Is there a difference between ivory keys and plastic keys?

•           Can you tell me the difference between a spinet piano, a console piano, a studio piano,
            an upright piano, and a grand piano?

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• A few tips and some advice from a humble master technician's perspective

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• Would an electronic keyboard be ok for a beginner, or do I really need a piano ?

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• Someone told me that I should not purchase a 'spinet' piano.  What do you think ?

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• What causes my piano to go out of tune ?

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• * The short answer:

•      The most prevalent cause is variations in ambient temperature and humidity, and the subsequent effect to the components in your instrument.

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•       Completely unsubstantiated is the prevalent belief that playing a piano is the number one cause of it falling out of tune.  The greatest effect to your piano's tuning stability comes from the expansion and contraction of the wood and metal components in the instrument.  This normally occurs during the seasonal changes throughout the year (whether the piano is played or not ).  Heat, cold, and varying humidity all affect your instrument's tuning stability causing the strings or piano wires to stretch.

•      At various times throughout the year, the wood in the piano will be in a state of expansion or retraction, affecting the pitch/tension of the piano wires.

•      Also depending on the instrument's age, the tuning pins will turn or twist incrementally small or larger amounts the older the instrument and more loose the pins hold is in the pinblock.  Once again this is due to temperature and humidity fluctuations.

•      If the piano is not tuned properly it is never given the chance to reach a point of stabilization that a properly trained technician can assist the piano to achieve.

•      When it comes to seasonal changes and your piano, you need to realize the impact that weather has on your instrument, and that far and away this is the primary reason your piano goes out of tune.  With proper maintenance your piano's sound, stability of the pitch, and even the life span of your instrument will all be positively affected.

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• Should I have my piano tuned prior to selling it ?

•      I'd recommend it.  It will give your potential customer the reassurance that the piano will hold a tuning.  It also showcases the piano in the best possible light, don't you think ?

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• Where do I find the piano serial number on my piano ?
      
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  In general, the number you seek will be four to seven digits and may also possibly (in newer pianos) have the model number associated with the actual serial number.  In newer pianos there is usually a tag/sticker inside the case that will have the serial and model number imprinted on it, but in vintage pianos in almost every brand the number will be imprinted (stamped) somewhere into the
  wood of the piano.  A technician can locate the number for you in places where you may not have the tools to remove parts to locate it yourself, however here we will go into some of the most obvious places where, with the aid of a flashlight you may be able to find the number hopefully without too much difficulty.
• Upright/Vertical Pianos
• Most vertical pianos will have some type of a "lid" (a plank of wood covering the top of the piano that hinges and can be lifted. (a) Use a flashlight and peek at the area around the tuning pins.  Pay close attention to the particular area that spans a gap between sets of tuning pins approximately 25-30% of the way from the left side of the piano.  Most piano company serial numbers are located there.  (b) Check the area inside the case of the piano both left and right to see if the number might be stamped or printed on a tag not forgetting to check the underside of the lid as well. (c) Look for stamped numbers on the backside of the piano's structure (the rear) typically on the plank of wood opposite the tuning pins and pinblock. (d) Is there paperwork for the instrument in the bench?  If none of these searches renders a number, contact a piano technician to have them locate it for you.
   
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• Grand Pianos
• In grand pianos typically speaking the serial number is located around the area of the tuning pins (imprinted/stamped on pinblock or painted on plate surface).  There is a separation between the bass set of tuning pins and the treble set of pins.  The number is usually there.  Another possibility is stamped into the wood of the soundboard (typically to the left and front of the piano).  Yet another location is stamped onto the "key-bed" (the large slab of wood the key-frame, keys and action rest on).  This location is typically under the piano, on the backside of the edge of the bed (plank) viewable from the underside of the piano, and toward the right side of the frame if determination of sides is made looking at the piano from the front.  More rarely one will find the number painted on the plate at an unusual location.  Otherwise, call a piano technician.
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• Would an electronic keyboard be ok for a beginner, or do I really need a piano ?

•      This is something like an analogy that comes to mind, and I'll give you the moral to the story first.  What are your priorities?  Here's the analogy:

•      You'd like to purchase a mode of transportation to get you and your family around.  As far as comparing cars and bicycles... which do you really need?  The bicycle will (with a basket or seat on the handlebar) carry up to three people, with some difficulty. But it doesn't cost as much as a car, use expensive gasoline, need insurance, etc.  But both bicycles and cars have wheels, you may say.  ...  We could carry this on and on.  The point is, and there's no shame here for you, what are your priorities?  About the only similarity between electronic keyboards and acoustic pianos is that they both have keyboards.  An acoustic piano, as a mechanical device has a nearly infinite ( depending on the player, and their touch) dynamic range.  The control of the loudness and softness, the slowness and rapidity, of touch with a mechanical piano simply can't be replaced or duplicated by any electronic keyboard.  I'm not even beyond this brief mention, going to go into the sound difference, or that teachers want you or your child to learn proper sound and touch as soon as is physically possible.

•      Of course there are always exceptions to almost every rule, and this is no different.  My wife is an excellent pianist and she learned to play on a keyboard, because the family's finances were limited as she was growing up.  Resolution ?  They bought a keyboard.  After a few months, a family member stepped forward and gave the family a piano, and the rest is history.  It has always been my experience that to be aware of a need is to see that need met.  Has that been your experience?

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• Someone told me that I should not purchase a 'spinet' piano.  What do you think ?
• Here's the facts without bias, or opinion. 

•      A spinet, as an acoustic/mechanical device is superior to an electronic keyboard, period. 

•      They may seem more space efficient than any other acoustic piano due to their shortness,  but this is misleading.  Spinet pianos are almost as 'long' horizontally as an upright, studio or console (see piano sizes), and nearly as deep (if facing, front to back). Because of their shortness, they are not as imposing as other pianos and certainly don't take over a room.

•      Fact number three is, and this is the kicker if you will, they are SIGNIFICANTLY less weight than any other acoustic piano. 

•      Due to several factors, they are the bottom rung technically as far as the mechanical portion goes.  Spinet pianos typically have the shortest key-length of any acoustic piano (grands have the longest).  This translates to less control over the loudness and softness (dynamic range) exerted by the piano player.  A spinet piano has a smaller soundboard, less structural stability than larger pianos, and overall smaller components.

•      They also can be harder to tune, making it more important that they be tuned by a master tuner/technician, or a tuner that has tuned thousands of instruments.   A spinet piano has inherent dissonant harmonics that must be taken into account as the piano is tuned.  Not an easy task for  a novice/amateur tuner.  They are more difficult to repair as the action in some models of spinet pianos will be mostly hidden behind the keys and key-frame of the piano, necessitating removal to do many repairs.  Other piano types can have many more repairs done in the piano with less expense passed on as savings to the customer.

•      If you can afford a larger piano, by all means purchase the largest acoustic piano you can afford.  Backing up from that, there's no shame in owning a spinet piano.  I know of many fine spinet pianos. A well made spinet is very enjoyable to play and could sustain a learning piano player for several years with no significant loss of opportunity for the piano player. 

•      Here's a little known fact.  Because getting expression from the shorter key can be quite a challenge, it may arguably make a more skilled pianist.  However, I'm sure you can understand why you'll never see a spinet piano on the stage in Carnegie Hall.

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• What are the differences between ivory keys and plastic keys ?

•      There are several differences.  The first, and probably something that is fairly well known is that it is illegal in this country to use ivory (elephant tusk) any longer.  Otherwise ivory would probably still be used.  Experienced players find that ivory, with its inherent tackiness, provides a more controlled less slippery feeling than plastic. Many times ivory has a grain that is judged to be more visually appealing than plastic as well.  Another characteristic of ivory is that it is porous. What this means to a player is a more controlled feel.  If you've never felt an ivory keyboard before, then if the opportunity presents itself, you'll feel what I mean.  I will say that a few players I've encountered didn't like the feel of ivory.  All pianos before the '40's had ivory key-tops.  Another difference is the color of ivory.  Dependent on its exposure to light, amount of usage, and natural characteristics ivory will have a color range somewhere between barely off-white and approaching a neutral color.

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• I'm on a tight budget, is it possible to segment out piano repair into 'bite-size' portions ?

•      It is a fairly simple task for a technician to split up some repairs, and there are others that will need to be done at once for a couple key reasons.  The piano has several separate components that work in accord with each other.  The mechanism or action, keys/key-bed, and pedal trap-work would be an example of this.  It is simple and sensible for a person on a budget to have these separate components repaired individually, because once repaired each individual component will enhance the piano overall, without the un-repaired component damaging the new material in the rebuilt portion.

•      Now in regard to the wires, tuning pins, bridges, soundboard, pin-block, plate, and accompanying felts, this is a facet of repair that, with only a few exceptions, must be repaired in one session.  The soundboard and bridges are literally under the wires in the piano, so the wires most times will have to be removed before these wooden components can be repaired.  One  exception is tuning pins.  There are several repair possibilities for them that do not involve a need to remove the wires.

•      There are some other elements to segmenting out repairs, but for the sake of space I'll not go into them here.  A consultation with your technician should answer for you your technician's ability to segment repairs and what repairs cannot be segmented.

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• Someone told me the piano wires in my piano are too old and brittle for the piano to be tuned to A440, and that it must be tuned to 'present pitch'.    What does 'present pitch' tuning mean, and why can't brittle wires be stretched to the pitch of A440 ?

•      First, the definition.  Present Pitch tuning is a terminology used by your technician to explain that the tuning they are leaving your piano with is at what the OVERALL level of pitch of the piano was when they first detected its present or current pitch.  Let's say your piano is 1/4 step below A440, then a present pitch tuning would be a relative adjustment to all the wires in the piano to achieve an overall melodious sound where all 88 notes are tuned or adjusted relative to 1/4 step below A440.

•      I would like to add a brief note here.  Most pianos regardless of age or wire brittleness can be adjusted to A440.  It is not a simple task, but as long as the tuning pins have adequate torque in the pinblock, then with multiple CAREFUL pitch raises these pianos can be repaired to appropriate pitch.  Out of 10,000's of instruments used for comparison I have encountered only a handful that actually couldn't be brought to correct or concert/A440 pitch because of brittle wires.

•     In a surprising number of cases I've personally encountered situations where a customer was told by a tuner the piano couldn't be raised was actually a case that the tuner didn't have the expertise or industriousness to give you and your piano what you deserve.  It is truly a test of a technician's ability to pitch raise a vintage piano to A440, but experience stands true on this point.  It can be done in most cases if the pin tightness will allow.  Out of many 1000's of actual wires stretched personally I've only experienced a handful break when tension was applied, and then it is only a matter of replacing the broken wire.  The primary reasons I've been asked for present pitch tunings have been low interest or budget concerns, and entirely understandable as long as the customer is informed of their options.

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• Should I have my instrument professionally appraised before putting it on the market ?

•      If you do you will increase your potential buyers confidence in what they are purchasing.  If the appraisal is done by a professional technician they can also evaluate the instrument and list things relating to maintenance the purchaser should know.  Another good reason for a piano appraisal is so the purchaser can have an idea how much they need to alert their insurance company to cover the instrument for.

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• How often do I actually need to have my piano tuned ?

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• * The short answer:

•      Manufacturers recommend two to three times per year.  Once a year is ok, but most pianos will need additional pitch adjustment.

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•      The frequency with which you schedule your piano tunings is dependent on several factors.  The first factor, and probably the most important is seasonal changes (more specifically, variations in temperature and humidity),  newly manufactured pianos, instruments that have recently been rebuilt (particularly freshly restrung pianos), and pianos that have been neglected  NEED several frequent piano tunings to in effect retrain the strings to reach and hold the tension @A440.  Next in importance is your commitment to proper maintenance, and then last (but not least) would be your personal preference relating to the sound or tone of your instrument.

•      Your piano's manufacturers all tell you in literature or by available support from company technicians that initially, and for probably the first two years of your instrument's life, your piano needs two to three piano tunings per year for the first two years. After this they will recommend two piano tunings per year minimum.   Most dealerships will try to jump start this process for you by including a free (usually expressed as warranty) tuning and then they will hope that the habit takes.  The truth is that the instrument you now have will last you the rest of your life (and probably most of your children's) with proper maintenance (minimum 2 piano tunings per year, or recommended 3 per year). 

•       Probably the strongest argument to support frequent piano tuning (maintaining an instrument at concert pitch) is that most  piano teachers like their students to work toward a discriminating ear in hearing pitch level, together with an even-ness of touch.  This is corrupted or compromised through practicing on a piano which is not properly maintained at  A440.   It's much easier to learn something right the first time, than it is to re-learn after developing a compromised feel, sense of acuity, and awareness.

•      Professional musicians have their pianos tuned monthly, weekly, or even prior to every performance.  I 'm not recommending this frequency to everyone.  However, it is not possible to tune a piano too much. The more frequently you have your piano tuned, the less adjustment it needs, resulting in more LIFETIME for your beautiful showpiece.  Doesn't this make sense?

•      While infrequent tuning may not permanently damage it, if you only tune your piano once per year there will be some where between a 2% and 20% (relative to age or stability) or more loss of pitch (A440) annually that will need correction by your tuner the next time they tune your instrument.

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• Grand pianos vs. Upright/vertical pianos.  What are the actual differences ?

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       First, I'll touch on the obvious differences.  However, there are several differences between grand pianos and vertical pianos (upright pianos, studio pianos, console pianos, and spinet pianos -  see piano sizes under Piano Generalities) that are not so obvious.  In general, Grand pianos have the piano's structure, piano wires and all accompanying components horizontal in relation to the floor, and vertical pianos are just that, having the main frame or structure of the piano, and all accompanying components vertical/ 90 degrees/ perpendicular to the floor. The other obvious similarities (piano keys, hammers, whippens, jacks and so forth) are where some of the not-so-obvious differences have significance.  Keep in mind for the sake of this discussion,  SOUND and  TOUCH.

• The Action and Keys:    
      
       Technically, the key of the piano translates to the 'touch sensitivity' of  the instrument.  Imagine a see-saw, if you will, for that is precisely what a piano key is.  You depress the front of the see-saw, and other end reverses your touch, literally duplicating the firmness, speed, and so forth once the key is depressed.  In piano teaching parlance you'll learn about a term, 'dynamic range', or how loudly/firmly and how softly/lightly you depress the key.  Now,  the longer the see-saw, the more control you have over the dynamic range.  In Grand pianos, the key is typically 4" to as much as 10"or more longer than vertical piano keys.  More control over the touch = more dynamic range potential = superior mechanism.  I will insert here that better quality vertical piano keys will use lead weights attempting to address this difference with some limited success.  But the truth is, and this is one reason grand pianos cost more, the mechanism is superior.
       The action difference is simply a matter of gravity... and repetition.  In a vertical piano, there are three primary places where a metal spring is utilized to push or press a component in the process of repetition.  In a grand piano, the primary function of the action is controlled by gravity.   Now, what do I mean by repetition?  You press a key, setting off a chain reaction that completes once the hammer in the action strikes the piano wire.  The springs in a vertical piano force the components back to their beginning point, so the key can be depressed again.  The principle of gravity causes the grand piano action to return to the starting point.  The difference in the types of pianos is the difference between man's metal spring and God's principle of gravity.  Translation, gravity is infinitely more consistent than a metal spring, and never wears out or weakens.  Once again I'll insert that  quality vertical pianos are just fine as instruments for most applications and experience levels, but you'll probably never see one in front of an orchestra if the company can afford a grand piano.  :-) .  Now (and I truly don't just enjoy hearing my self talk, I'm attempting to offer useful information here.  Thank you for your patience and I hope this isn't too tedious for you), in a grand piano there is an additional component that you'll never see in a vertical.  It is called a repetition lever .  The repetition lever in the grand piano permits a more controlled and arguably more rapid repetition than can be delivered from any vertical action in existence today.

•  The Structure/Frame:
  
       Grand pianos are essentially suspended in mid-air, and for this reason need a more stable/solid structure for their frame.  Upright pianos do not need, nor indeed do they have the frame requirement of a grand piano.   The frame of a piano is the portion you won't see unless you look behind a vertical piano or up from the underside of a grand piano.  The case is simply a facade that looks appealing, and supports the mechanisms used to play the piano.
       Now so that I don't sound like I only appreciate grand pianos,  I will tell you that better quality upright/vertical pianos can be comparable in sound to some grand pianos, and the vertical piano action mechanism can be very enjoyable to play for even the most discriminating touch, AND upright pianos can run thousands of dollars less to own than a grand piano. 

•      There is one more final note that I'll insert, and to say that if you've actually read all of this my hat's off to you.  If you're just starting to learn or are seeking to optimize your dependents interest in learning to play a piano (and have the money) obtain a grand and you've done well for you and yours.  If your budget won't permit, or available space is a consideration, then know that upright pianos will be very satisfying for the purpose of owning a piano, which is music .  Buy, beg, or borrow (don't steal) a piano and discover all that music can and will do for you and bring into your life.  Music is the real reason.   Music answers so many needs not just artistically, but literally helps us to think more effectively.  We need this more than ever in this world today, don't you agree?

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• Can you explain for me the differences between a spinet piano, a console piano, a studio piano, an upright piano, and a grand piano?

• SPINET PIANO

•      Spinet pianos are most commonly characterized by their size.  They range in height 36" to around 42"  (give or take a few inches ).  In technical terminology they are also referred to as drop action pianos or more correctly indirect blow action pianos ( the piano key pulls or provides an indirect blow which pulls the action into motion rods we call in the industry - stickers).  They may be small in stature, but are complete pianos with complex escapement mechanism, piano key lengths ranging from just under one foot to over fourteen inches, an over-strung scale design for the piano wires,  and last but certainly not least well over fifteen tons of tension on the structure of that tiny musical instrument when the piano is tuned to A440.  The higher grade spinet pianos boast comparable tuning stability to larger piano designs, and no loss of sound resonance.  The downside characteristic of medium to low quality spinet pianos is resident dissonance in the piano wires ( particularly in the bass piano wires ).  Some also argue that because of the shorter piano key length, the dynamic range that makes expression possible in acoustic pianos is some what diminished in spinet pianos.

•      In comparison to an electronic keyboard, there is none but that they both have ebonies and ivories.  By far, most teachers will recommend a spinet piano over an electronic keyboard if an individual's primary concern is a balance between budget and not compromising seeking an acoustic piano.  Because they are the smallest piano, they typically are the most affordable.  They also are a favorite choice for constricted living conditions, and for individuals who move frequently ( with some difficulty they can actually be carried ... most weigh around three to five hundred pounds.  Whereas larger pianos will be significantly over 500 lbs. and impossible to carry ).  Grade as a starter piano? 9.5 out of 10.

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• CONSOLE PIANO

•      Console pianos are preferable to own over spinet pianos because they are the first class of piano that contains a direct blow action.  In layman's terminology, a direct blow action means greater feel ( control ) over the loud sounds and soft sounds a piano is literally named for.  Originally pianos were called 'piano-forte' which translated means 'soft-loud'. 
•      Console pianos also have a piano wire ( string ) length that is anywhere from four inches to over a foot longer than spinet piano wire lengths.  This means more resonant sound, with longer sustaining tones. 
•      Also along with the bigger structure comes more stability for all the weight that console pianos support.  A typical console piano will sustain somewhere just shy of twenty tons of tension distributed across 200+ piano wires at A440.
•      There is a caution in regard to console pianos and some spinet pianos as well.  This is a very attractive, decorative leg that supports the front of the keyboard.  This 'leg' typically has almost no structural integrity.  Put simply it will crack and break away from the piano with an amazing amount of ease.  For this reason, when this piano is moved, great care should be taken to not allow this leg to receive side pressure from any angle.  Some times, if I assess the risk to the leg is great enough, I'll actually remove it before moving the piano.

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• STUDIO/UPRIGHT PIANO

•      Studio pianos and upright pianos are quite similar overall.  Both types of piano have direct blow actions.  This type of action has a piano key that extends under the action, so when the key is depressed it literally transfers a direct blow type of motion to the action of the piano.  The studio and upright piano types also have the longest key length of any vertical piano class.  These key lengths will range from over a foot long to just shy of twenty inches ( give or take a couple ).  This translates to the most controllable touch of any piano except grand pianos.

•      These studio piano and upright piano types also have a much more stable frame and structure than any other vertical piano class, and the longest piano wire length.  A studio piano ranges around four feet high whereas an upright piano is around three to five inches taller.  More tuning stability, a more resonant musical instrument with longer sustaining musical tones, this is the preferable upright or vertical type of piano to own.  Also because of the stable frame, these types are usually seen in classrooms of various schools or other institutions such as churches.  They can be rolled around with some ease from room to room without the stability of the piano tuning being adversely affected.

•      One may also find in the vintage upright pianos the only introduction of a sostenuto rail.  Rarely occurring in a few brands of antique pianos is a version of a rail operated from a pedal that permits an individual to play and sustain one set of notes without having to sustain the dampers from the rest of the piano's notes.

•      Around the turn of the century literally thousands of piano companies world-wide were producing mass quantities of upright pianos.  The result in current times of this is large masses of upright pianos available at a fraction of their actual value simply because there are so many sitting around not being used.  For this reason upright pianos are also available as an excellent starter piano.  It is not at all unusual for an upright piano to be purchased for under one thousand dollars ( sometimes significantly less ).  Many times an upright piano can be obtained merely by going and picking it up... no easy feat!

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• GRAND PIANO

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•      The inimitable grand piano is simply the standard of acoustic pianos.  The "repetition lever" in a grand piano's action sets it completely apart from every vertical piano ever made.  This lever catches a portion of the grand piano's action, enabling extremely fast repetition rates.  W